Today, I am homesick for Santa Cruz. And like everyone else who doesn’t get out much, I have to pull photos from a year ago for Flashback Friday.
I have recently declared myself to be a surf historian. At the championship of my older brother ~ who has humored all of my random affinities over the years ~ I was made privy to an article in the National Geographic about #extra Californians trying desperately to preserve local surf spots for themselves. The link to the article was accompanied by a text that read, “yo boys out here wilin’.” Ha. Then we had a discussion on the fascinating subjects of white privilege and cultural appropriation as they have played out in the mainstream surf phenom of California, Australia and the West at large. No shade, just sociology.
At the moment, I’m reading Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan which I affectionately refer to as A Haole’s Tale. It is engaging and educational and just what I needed to inaugurate my official personal journey as a surf historian. My not so secret ambition is to contribute to the soundtrack of a surf documentary or film.
But today, on a beautifully brumous Friday in May, I miss the place that feels the most like home.
Reading Barbarian Days and the El Niño’s Wake issue of Surfer Magazine, and following fabulous young melanated instagramers* who are traveling the world has solidified my deep desire to stay. I want to live somewhere long enough to learn the ocean; long enough to smell the storm blow in before the sun surrenders, long enough to read the flocking of birds towards the east…so I could tell the difference if a tsunami ever began to swell on the sea.
I’m also currently obsessed with Leeward Side by Josh Pyke, so if you need a fresh song for your weekend, give it a listen!
*shoutout to the following instagrammers: @asiyami_gold, @l10_lax, @spiritedpursuit, @moraaonyonka, @zimism